UPSIDEDOWNWORLD

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Here I am settled in my new life and loving it. Such wonderful sunshine in the middle of a cold damp Irish winter, such was my winters to now.

Took some effort to get me here, two years of nagging by my husband, how we should be living beside our grandkids and watch them grow up, enjoy their company etc. I did try to persuade him that as our grandchildren grew they would surely not want to see us. They would have lots more interesting things to be doing with their lives and I’m sure one of them is not spending alot of time with old fogies, whoever they might be. And despite the fact that I had spent my wonder years being a wonderful parent to three wonderful children. I had made such a great job in rearing my children did not mean that I would take on the job of making such a success of my grandkids lives. I’d leave that to their parents. Am I right or am I right.

With two ears and six months, oops, sorry, one ear and six months we finally arrived. wait ’til I tell you about the six months. Well, it started in London middle of April with a group of people, like us, were travelling overland with Odyssey Overland.. What? I’ve already mentioned all that? Oh my memory. Never mind, we’ll start in Kuala Lumper, actually we’ll finish in Kuala Lumper and start again in Perth. Only 6 hrs flight, what a great treat, much better than the 24 hours from Dublin. The six months travel made the 6hrs flight seem like a few mins. Arrived at Perth at – oh sometime early morning, or 7am to be met, even if she was a bit late, by our Rachel and Brian was a wonderful excitement time, as it always is. Breakfast and then on road again, to Bunbury, our future home and our present family. To be surrounded by Rachel & Christian and their spouses and all those children!! Absolutly fabulous. The young grandchildren were as excited at us being there as was their parents and grandparents. But we were tired and so early to bed and for James early to rise 4.30am and out to work on site bricklaying with Christian. Honest, didnt even get one day to recover Christian knew his dad would be bored not working after 6months on road. But we all know that James would have enjoyed a week or so of doing ‘nothing’. At this stage I still dont know what ‘doing nothing’ means to James but I sure know what it means for me and I try not to veer from that knowledge too often.

We have visited WA a number of times in the past 12 years, since Rachel married Brian Freebury, an Aussie. Brian is one of the few first generation genuine Aussies we have met in the 5 weeks here, mostly English and a few Irish. Anyway, didnt have a culture shock as we did have on our first visit to WA, 12 years ago, into the bush. Talk about a step back in time. We found it a frightening experience that first night as the wild ones in the local pub were long haired bearded wild men and the women wern’t much better in their behaviour but looked rather more feminine. It was a few days later that we were informed that what we had witnessed was a 40th birthday celebration. Oh, not that scene from ‘Deliverance’ which it always reminded me of, with yer man strumming guitar(?). Disappointing. What an amazing wonderful experience. Now we must visit our bush home each time we arrive here.

The weather has been good since our arrival, 25c approx, a good Irish summer’s day and great for me, walking, James working. Now, some days it has been hotter, 30, but tolerable. It is such a lovely town and a pleasure to wander around, stop for coffee, visit local shopping centres just for a look around. It is strange to see all the shops decked out for Christmas in 30c heat. It is difficult to change from our Irish heritage and cold damp holy Christmas or do I mean ‘holly’? Aye, probably. The high, cloudless blue sky makes all and everything so much brighter and lighter and much more smiling faces. In fact the people are very friendly, all greet with a ‘g’day, and how are you today’, and smiling faces. We have yet to come on a rude person. It is difficult to imagine people being on best behaviour all day every day but that is how the customer is always greeted, be it in superstore or bank e.g. and they are all open to friendly chat. It must be the weather which determines the mood. It is probably why in the cold damp western world people are more inclined to be grumpy.

As I said most of the locals are English and how do I know? Well its all due to them barbies..must go and meet the locals, eat the local foods, some ‘roo’ and its not bad, having eaten worse on the journey here, braised crickets, very nice they were. The bbq’s are great craic. All friends from near and far get together for a day and night. Lots eating and wee bit of alcohol, but then the Irish arrive and its wee bit food and lots drink. And shur isnt that the way it shud be! Havn’t visited a pub for a session as the pubs dont know what a pub athmosphere is. Cannot take an Irish Pub out a Ireland and thats a fact the world over, or at least not in the parts I’ve visited, and lets face it, they were many.

After a month here and exclaiming about the wonderful weather, making everyone in Ireland jealous and they living with the usual wet winter. Oh, Kay, keep your mouth shut. It started raining and hasnt stopped for 48hrs and boy does it know how to rain, just downpours and floods and doesnt encourage one to step outside. Ah but we know it wont last for much longer…oh did I say that! I’ll keep you informed. And all the Aussies are very pleased with the rain as it waters all the gardens and saves on the water rates. An that is how it stands at present.

You wont believe this, but as I sit the window typing, I am keeping one eye on Beauty. Who’s Beauty, Oh she’s the dog (bitch) we inherited with the house. Christian and Kelly moved into rental accommadation and dogs arn’t allowed. She’s a lovly lassie but her hobby is jumping up and tearing the clothes off the line. She destroyed James’ favourite Dunya t-shirt. Needless to say he was p..t off with here but has forgiven her at this stage provided she keeps her feet on the ground.

But this is the best part..was chatting to Kelly couple of days ago and I mentioned in passing, ‘I wonder why dogs aren’t allowed stay with you?’

She sez ‘What are you talking about?’

‘Christian was telling me that he couldn’t take Beauty as woman renting house to you didn’t allow dogs on premises’.

‘Oh, I never heard that, he just said ‘I’ll leave Beauty here for mam and dad, they asked me to”.

What a wonderful kind generous son, leaves his dog, which I knew nothing about and especially one who eats all our clothes..

See. I already mentioned that I reared wonderful children!!

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So thats it

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Its all over, didn’t even cry…

 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 

 

  
  Today is Friday 24th September, I think. Hard to keep track

when one is having the experience of a lifetime. We are still in the beautiful Koh Samui Native Resort and loving it. Walked along the beautiful beach today, about 2doz persons along a mile of beach. It surely is the low season. Great to have our own space, wonder what to do with it?. Bought me a large pair of shorts today, well, not all that large,. I must take full advantage of this pool.

Last week in Bangkok gang were sitting in a pub, (where else), Ben sez I wish someone would ask me a question so that I could answer ‘Ach aye’. Quick as a flash Kirsten asks ‘Ben will you buy me a drink?’ Think Ben had no choice. He likes yon phrase but is now very careful where and when he uses it. Right Ben?

And also ‘that’s cat’ or ‘that’s cat dog melodeons’ (wonder what it means) but he knows when to use it, and I’m trying to teach him the odd Irish words, ‘In ainm on athair…’

The end is nigh but it will be very difficult to settle down to an everyday existence, knowing where I’ll be that night and the next day and the next day….Of course living close to kids and grandkids will be wonderful, I hope.

On Skype last night. Rachel that we would be ‘babysitting’ as they don’t go back until mid week. Cant wait…. At least they will be able to spend some  quality time with us. Sorcha, eldest grandchild, is looking forward to the ‘quality time’.

Oh to get back on track, in Koh Samui James decided to take a scooter out for a few hrs and me riding pillion. He has not been on a scooter since he was a child and that wasn’t today or yesterday. However, he got the scooter and spent some time, approx 15mins or perhaps I exaggerate, more like 5mins, practising on the back roads. We were soon ready to set off on our 5k to Tesco. Why Tesco you might well ask. To find the nice sausages, just like home (Ireland). I get confused myself as to where

Oh how did he in here

home is. We got there only to find that ONE SAUSAGE WAS €1. So it was a case of goodnight Dick and back on scooter to head to resort in the heavy traffic and the heavy rain.

In the first few months of our travels we did some serious driving, or Pete did, on mountain roads with only a precipice between me and death and scared me witless. Oh Jesus to even think about it makes me feel scared witless….

Ah, but the scooter experience, bates Banagher. Terrified is a mild word in expressing my feelings. He did ok I suppose for a first time, but the stopping and starting and chug chugging and other scooter drivers all mad as hatters, in and out and around cars, trucks and even worse around us. Seriously thought of taking a taxi back but decided ‘ah to hell, I’ll chance it’ and here I am to tell the tale, only just.

Before we stop our travels we must get to a market. James is looking for a good faked fake Rolex. The ordinary fakes just don’t work for long enough. His watch now, not a Rolex, goes fast or slow but never at an even pace. When it stops, which is often, he gives it a good slap and it starts all over again.

Went walking this afternoon James hurt his toe. well, one would think he’d had a near fatal accident, (what, another one?) on and on and on about the pain. When we arrived back had to bathe it and soothe it with cream and then a plaster. Oh, the cut, no, didn’t need many stitches. Did I say ’many’, meant ‘any‘.

This resort is good for a laugh, apart from the injury… As it the low season they don’t stock up on lots of alcohol, as they drink it themselves when no one there, very little varied food also. So if we require a beer or a food which is not in stock, one hops on the scooter, (no certainly not James) and away to town, takes 20mins or so for round trip. After a couple of days, rather than put them to that effort, we would ask them what food is available and they’d make up a dish with whatever ingredients were there. No wine or beer available and we didn’t bother, coke cola sufficed – honest.

Now Tuesday, 28th sept, caught ferry and half of gang there. ,

Was great to see them and I have Simon carrying my rucksack

 its bloody heavy, and I carry his wee light one. Well, you know what they say ’what goes around comes around’ and I did look after his rucksack for days on end. Stayed in National Park for couple of nights. Pauline, Barry, James and meself went walking in the Park. We stopped for coffee on way back. We take off our shoes before entering a building, shop, house, cabin etc. I noticed blood under James’s foot. When he lifted it to look, a bloody great leech ready to fall off so full of his blood was he. The blood flow is serious and after few mins I looked to check it and what did I find but another leech. Yuk, ugly yokes. Then Pauline discovered one on her leg and then I discovered one on my leg. Wasn’t long getting rid of it. That was enough experience for me of blood suckers.

And heading to Penang, spend couple nights there and head off again.

Time is moving on towards our new life in Australia.

Penang great city. We went on guided tour to temple on the hill, incredible building, intricate designs and then on to another temple, different design but equally beautiful. The workmanship is unbelievable even to my inexperienced eye.

Penang to coastal fishing village for a night. We came out on a speed boat this morning, to an island, don’t know the name but I’m sure it begins with a P, one more thing to check with James! Took only 25mins, much too quick as I was loving it. Oh Jesus, was it rough or what! Exhilarating. Dennis said if one sits at the back beside the captain it is very smooth but I told him I like it rough. ‘That’s your business Kay, but as regards the speedboat ….’

Beaut cabin, beaut beach and free wifi, needless to say the weather is as usual, bright blue skies, sandy beach and dear beer…in fact very dear beer, Rm10 for can of Tiger, some places RM20 So no alcohol for next few days. Left all clothes into laundry, they certainly need a good seeing too.

All hands went to beach around 10am or so and I stayed with computer writing emails and such. When they came back from beach enthusing about it I decided I’d better go and visit and so I did and it was amazing, and I went paddling in my kaftan and just so much wanted to swim. No chance, no clothes.

Back to base, called into laundry, clothes still sitting there so I took them back and now have them out in sunshine. Strange as it may seem, after all that palaver I don’t have a pair of shorts amongst them. Knickers and t-shirts aplenty and that will do just fine first thing in morning, not many bathers about early and anyway shur who’d be looking at me.

Oh reason I don’t have shorts or the like is that we just took small bag of necessary stuff. We are here for 3 days in Paradise, (Now that begins with a ’P’, so probably name is ‘Paradise‘). Next stop 2 days in National Park and then KL and then AUSTRALIA. As I sit here half naked waiting on clothes to dry……and it’s the next morning and gang gone a walking cept me and few others. Someone stole my 2 bras – honest. James sez it was probably the monkeys, use them as a

Just checking…the monkeys

hammock. Wouldn’t be surprised, wee nuisances, between them, squirrels and the sugar gliders wake me every morning at 7am jumping on the roof and that is much too early for me.

oh there he is again...

However this morning got up early 8.30am, had breakfast and set out for a walk with a gang, about 8 of us. James had been this way before with Pauline and Barry. He said we might find it tough. No bother to us, lets go. Such a trek. Must be easier to climb Everest. It was horrendous. We had to climb steep hills holding on to tree roots which made steps. Up on hands and knees, ants nests everywhere, over rocks, and between rocks with little space. I got stuck between them but only the once, got stung by ants, but only few times. Met Dennis on the way and I whinged that this was hell. He said ‘well if its any consolation it doesn’t get any better‘. And was he right. Oh Jesus, thought I’d never get out a there alive and it was lucky for James that he survived, know what I mean, I wasn‘t in best of form with him. Could a killed him, his fault that I near collapsed from exhaustion and dehydration or so I complained. A great walk,  if your name is Barry or Pauline or James.

Then on Way to Kuala Lumper stopped at Jungle to walk the Canopy Walk. it’s a narrow bridge miles over the tops of mile high trees. I made it no bother, despite the swings and bumps of yon bridge. Nice place, nice food, nice mood. Nice for a visit.

Ah ha KL and only one more sleep.. And by God did I need it, sleep I mean. Party time for all the ‘leavers’. First, had slide show of sights and sites along the way in past 6 months. Then to Chinatown for meal and where the drink flows freely at long last, and even cheap it is too. And a great night was had by all. But Saturday, that’s another story. I didn’t see much of KL but I did hear that it has one of the highest towers in the world. Once upon a time it was the tallest, but not anymore. To know how others spent Saturday they need to be consulted, must ask Mags on that.Its is 9th October, Saturday evening all discussing where they should go for dinner. Ach shur me and James knew exactly where we would have dinner, on a plane to Western Australia to start a new adventure. With thanks to a wonderful group for making last 6 months a wonderful adventure, the ups, downs, ins and outs and for some a near death experience.

Mustnt forget the crew who didn’t do a bad job either….

THE END.

PS. Seriously, about the crew, they are amazing. Kirsten and Pete were in control at all times. They coped with any crisis, sorted out all problems, and there were many, some big, some small, alcohol poisoning, slashing of tent, dehydration near death experience, with amazing patience and calmness. We could not have asked for a better crew to care for us. We didn’t have to do anything for ourselves regarding visas, border crossings, grocery shopping etc etc. and on it goes.

No, no, that is not the crew

 

THE END (again)

PPS Yes, I would love to do the South American trip but would they want me, now that’s another question.

THE END (definitely this time)

PPPS Sorry, but I want to wish you, Pete and Kirsten and all the great group all the very best for the future, have yourselves a wonderful life.

SLAINTE.

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Penultimate

If its Hoi An it must be Vietnam.  Luxury air conditoned coach for this 2.5hr journey.  Did my second cookery course today, becoming  a dab hand at this foreign cooking, Cheungs lookout, competition will be to watch out for.  And James took his long pointed toed (or as you might say ‘winkle pickers’) Mexican Ostrich leather cowboy boots to a ‘wizard shoemaker’ who was just that, and he now has ordinary or ‘chisel toed’ cowboy boots, which is just great as it means he can walk safely up the stairs without tripping over himself.  Unfortunately that Chinese family wont fit into them now. Right Christian?
Perfect
View the photo, what do you think?
That’s him, always puts best foot forward..
And whilst there we (me and couple of friends) got clothes custom made to fit the perfect figures.  Ben thought he did also but unfortunately not made to measure and being Ben, they ended up in the bin.  No, you wont learn, will you Ben!
We were on bus trip to Jungle Beach, all looking forward to it, relaxing on a beach, nothing to do but eat drink and swim and whatever else one might want to do… Oh it was on that journey that ‘yer man’ did the suicide stunt.
At one stage on bus trip James sez ‘Kay, I dont feel well’.  I knew immediatly that he wasnt as he rarely complains. I jumped up to get plastic bag for ‘sick’, yelled PETE, PETE  James not well, HELP, HELP.  James collapsed.  My man was, honestly, the colour of a corpse. Pete jumped to his feet, stopped bus and ran to us to check situation. The man looked dead and others thought the same.  I grabbed the man behind me, Neal, 25yrs old but a grand hoult (‘something good to hold on to’) probably my last chance with youngster of his age! Anyway to get back to my husband’s skirmish with death, amazing what goes thru one’s mind. My main screaming thought was ‘how do I tell the children?’ What do I do with the rest of my life, how can I survive without him and damn it,  should have increased his insurance…’
Pete immediately took command of the situation and assured me he (James) was suffering from dehydration., diverted the bus to the local hospital. He was helped out from bus by caring concerned friends unto a trolley in the hospital. He was immediately examined by a Vietnamese Dr. who, after eeg and various other examinations came to the conclusion that James was suffering from ‘Menieres Syndrom’. He came to conclusion because he (James) was suffering from dizziness and puking or as James sez ‘technicolour chunder’ (perhaps tmi).  James was mildly amused, or as amused as a person could be on a trolley in the corridor of  hospital near death.    Despite the doctors diagnosis and his multitude prescriptions (which landed in the bin with one clear shot) we decided to stay with PETE’S diagnosis, dehydration – ‘James you dont drink enough water’.  It was worth it as Mags, his nurse, asked could she stay near him to look after him. We therefore got one of the best cabins, to suit four, me, him, his nurse Mags and Lesley security, had to accompany him to our first class accommadation to ensure he survived the night and he did. With such love and attention it was not long til he was  sharing beach with the rest of our group and drinking litres of water, and the odd beer of course, didnt want him to go into shock again. Wasnt long ’til he was sharing beach with the rest of our group and drinking litres of water, and the odd beer of course, didnt want him to go into shock again.
Looks well, doesnt he and him near death couple days ago
And the next stop Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City, after yer man with long scraggly beard.  You remember him?Church interior
Went to Catholic Cathedral. What a contrasting experience to visit a Catholic Chapel after all the mosques, temples and stupas, pagodas, standing stones prayer flags.  I didnt think one still existed in these parts.
Is this the first time you inside a Catholic Church since the confirmation?
Visited CuChi tunnels,which were the solid revolutionary base of the Zone Party Committee and all Cu Chi people. The tunnels were also a versatile battle formation to fight against enemy and significantly contribute to the task of unifying the country.
We were allowed into top layer of tunnels which accommadated our size but deeper we went the narrower the tunnels became, so no way Hose.  Some shot the AK47. James did want to give it a go but €10 too dear, would get us 2 good dinners + beverages – no contest, one must look after one’s health, musn’t one.
James trying to bury himself in CuChi tunnel.  Afraid not too many of us could fit.
Hav’nt a clue what, where or why we have been in any country town or road since last we spoke or wrote.  Its now Thailand I do believe.  At this stage we are quite blase about each and every situation, e.g. in town few nights ago, oh sorry, the town, is actually a city,  Bangkok. This reminds me of a good story told by our  good friend Ed McGeough (God Rest Him Tonight). This is our version, good bad or whatever.. He was in a young girl’s hostel in London. What was he doing there? Who knows BUT he looked to 3rd or 4th floor and a young girl was looking down over the bannisters. When they made eye contact she said ‘I’m peeking’ and his immediate response was ‘Yes, and I’m Bangkok’ and ran up the stairs to meet.  Unfortunatley we dont have the video or the t-shirt.
On way to cheap wine bar, or I was told it was cheap, but cudnt pay heed as I was dying for a pee. We went down a wee side street, and just like any fella would do, I went into a dark corner and had my pee.  What a relief, almost orgasmic, if you are lucky enough to know where I’m ‘coming’ from.,  It was quite funny ‘cos a local was walking up street and Lesley stood in front of him and asked ‘few moments please?’ and he waited no bother til out I came pulling up the trousesrs, no, not the knickers, had dealt with that already. Now, if we had not been bushcamping and had had to use whatever facilities available, usually behind a tree, a rock and even had to use the truck as a shield from prying eyes, one side for the women, other side for the men.  Call of nature has to be answered wherever it may be.  And we did find cheap wine bar and enjoyed every glass of red. Got back to hotel without further incident.
Bangkok got our Australian Visas, can stay ‘indefinitely’ in Australia. Excitement a terra!!  At this stage I have Rachel arranging our flights to WA for 9th October.  Now I dont know where  home is, I suppose its where I hang my hat, if I did have a hat to hang.
Now here we are in a wonderful place, the National Park. What a contrast to Bangkok. Was in Bangkok 12 yrs ago on way to Rachel’s and Brian’s wedding. Stopped over for 5 days, had a wonderful guide and found the city spectactular. But now it is very commercial and geared towards the tourists.
And we ferried down lake Tonlie Sap and what an another amazing  sight, an actual floating village, where people live full lives, with all necessary commodities, even the odd satellite dish.
Musnt forget to mention the Bridge on the River Kwae, just a few photos to remind you of the film, long before you lot were born and prob before I was born.
No sign of John Mills or was it Alex Guinness.   Oh well , at least you can say you saw it.
Heading to Koh Samui, island off Bankok.  Left our hotel in Bankok to walk few yards to our coach. No it wasnt there, just around next corner.  6pm and still hot and humid and the amount of luggage we had to carry, my rucksack and spare bag, Leslie helped me carry that, then Pete took over. James struggled on with his rucksack and Simon’s who wasnt available to carry his own but that’s another story. ‘Around next corner’ happened to be a mile away. Then on sleeper for 12hrs. Needless to say it was not easy to sleep, but I suppose we kinda rested in an uncomfortable way.  Got off bus few miles from dock, all baggage off, then hauled onto another coach, then to dock to unload again and lug onto ferry, and all in the blazing heat.
We booked accommodation of the net the day before we travelled, just the first place we came across. Only booked in for two nights to suss it out. After the couple of hours we got a minibus to our destination.   Here are the photos to she you see how perfect it is. I was exhausted at this stage and was not easily pleased with our hotel, that is until I saw it in its proper light.  As its the ‘low season’ it is reasonably cheap with no guests here but we two and four people to look after us.  Perfect for a relaxing week.

Bangkok got our Australian Visas, can stay ‘indefinitely’ in Australia. Excitement a terra!!  At this stage I have Rachel arranging our flights to WA for 9th October.  Now I dont know where  home is, I suppose its where I hang my hat, if I did have a hat to hang.Now here we are in a wonderful place, the National Park. What a contrast to Bangkok. Was in Bangkok 12 yrs ago on way to Rachel’s and Brian’s wedding. Stopped over for 5 days, had a wonderful guide and found the city spectactular. But now it is very commercial and geared towards the tourists.  And we ferried down lake Tonlie Sap and what an another amazing  sight, an actual floating village, where people live full lives, with all necessary commodities, even the odd satellite dish. Heading to Koh Samui, island off Bankok.  Left our hotel in Bankok to walk few yards to our coach. No it wasnt there, just around next corner.  6pm and still hot and humid and the amount of luggage we had to carry, my rucksack and spare bag, Leslie helped me carry that, then Pete took over. James struggled on with his rucksack and Simon’s who wasnt available to carry his own but that’s another story. ‘Around next corner’ happened to be a mile away. Then on sleeper for 12hrs. Needless to say it was not easy to sleep, but I suppose we kinda rested in an uncomfortable way.  Got off bus few miles from dock, all baggage off, then hauled onto another coach, then to dock to unload again and lug onto ferry, and all in the blazing heat.

We booked accommodation of the net the day before we travelled, just the first place we came across. Only booked in for two nights to suss it out. After the couple of hours we got a minibus to our destination.   Here are the photos to she you see how perfect it is. I was exhausted at this stage and was not easily pleased with our hotel, that is until I saw it in its proper light.  As it the ‘low season’ it is reasonably cheap with no guests here but we two and four people to look after us.  Perfect for a relaxing week.

Not bad shur its not.

AND LEST WE FORGET


Vietnam

Cambodia – Pot Pol

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zak

Yes, well about this Blog…
Now where was I, aye in China but we’re out of it.  Long 5 weeks, driving tru deserts. Oh I think I told you that last time? Now we are in Laos, Luang Namtha I think, I’ll check on that sometime.
No Prostitute

Most of stuck to the rules, didnt we Simon!

Oh My God what have I done!! Just signed up for a full day trekking tomorrow morning starting at 8.30am.  What an eegit and me just after walking for 5 minutes from pub to club and the sweat pouring off me.  Ah shur cud be worse I suppose, wudnt it be a tragedy if I cudnt do it  atall? what? of course it would.
And better still, I’m a millionaire. The money here is ‘Kip’ and they come in 1000′s.  e.g 50000kip = approx £50stg.
Now I’ll go backways before I go forward.
31 July 2010,  Serious floods in China, bridges down so we have to return to Lhasa.  We are all quite pleased as we loved it before, didnt think we’d ever see it again and here we are!  Every place we visit the usual comment ‘We must go see/do (whatever)…. this is our only chance, we wont be here again’.  But here we are again with our last chance…yes? Yak Hotel was (Kay backwards) full, no room at the inn so to speak,  have to stay in lovely hotel, long walk from Yak but we get a taxi or in one instance a rickshaw.  Driver didnt know where he was going but asking lots of people (rickshaw drivers) he eventually found the Yak. Needless to say we couldnt help him as even tho we had come this way before we had even less of an idea than yer man.   He wanted 150 for trip.  20 as this is the set charge for within a certain area and it wasnt our fault he didnt know his way around Lhasa. He went mad, wudnt take it but we threw it in his basket and made a hasty escape.  So der you are, that was our excitement for one day.  But after a few vodkas discussing it,  we decided  that he wasnt such a bad soul after all, just trying to make a few extra yuna. Thats another thing I have to check, name of local currency.

Panda Sanctury, aye, Pandas hiding, but not these red lads..

Panda Sanctury, aye, Pandas hiding, but not these red lads..
Same family as Pandas, distant cousin.
Anyway, 1st time we were der, one afternoon out walking on my own, straight road back to hotel.  Needless to say I got lost somewhere along straight road.  Went into shop and enquired bout Yak but they didnt know where it was. Asked me to write it down and I wrote ‘Zak’.  Now the day was hot and I was ‘glowing’, not sweating.  I cudnt figure out Zak cos I was sure it should be ‘Kay’. What a muppet! Anway I had brochure in my pocket which I remembered and no I was escorted to ‘Zak’ Hotel, it was approx 2mins max from the shop, back the way I’d come.. Ok so I walked past it but so would you if you weren’t looking where you were going.
Just to show you how a real live panda looks like. Nice dont you think
and now for something completly different
Him and his trekking or rafter or whatever, he was very annoyed he missed topless women.
Route to Thailand changed,  at Katmandu fly to Bankok, travel by coach for remainder of journey, no complaints.  Took us a whle to adjust our thoughts to such a change but we knew there was no option and it was all due to serious rains resulting in roads blocked, bridges down and mountain passes, well, just disappeared, no chance of even attempting them, I surely would have mental breakdown, Oh Jesus!
31 July. What a Godawful shock!  Meeting in lobby at 11am to be told by Pete of another change in plans. In this hotel til Monday den fly at 9am to     aomewhere, then train, 18 hrs overnight sleeper then resume journey as arranged at beginning by bus train and planes. Drinking wine for the nerves. Tent and sleeping bags going to Jaime via truck, selecting clothes we can do without and ship them all to Rachel. Oh, threw out perfectly good ‘Everest’ clothes.  That bloody tent should be dumped. Dont know what Jaime will do with all camping gear. Could use tent in Oz whenever, we get there. Wont be long now.  ’What the hell are you upset about, its only clothes’ sez James. But that was no comfort to me at that time. made me worse. In hindsight I agree, only clothes and wont need them in Australia. Worst of all the truck has to go back to England, cant go any further.  When telling the kids that bit of info all asked ‘but what about the truck?’  Poor truck missed by all but she was great while we had her.
Now will finish this later as its near time for my Cookery Course in Lao food. Mmmm should be interesting. I’ll keep y’all informed, mite even quote a recipe.
Now we’re in Nong Kieu,  and had a wonderful day. Went walking with Pauline and Barry. No sane person would walk with dem as they go for miles and miles,  took us to caves, they are actually very easy to walk with as Barry stops ever few metres to takes phographs
Caves were amazing.  We had an unoffical guide, Du-ee (dont know spelling but proununced ‘Du-ee) who gave us a brief history.
During Vietamese war the caves were occupied by up to 300 people at a time.  There was a living area, a hospital, administrator’s office and entertainment area.  Entertainment was for pastime, mainly dancing, music supplied by handclapping. They lived there for 25 YEARS.  USA sent out reconnasance planes at night and caves were discovered and bombed.  Locals believe that caves were spotted because of fires lit for cooking.  Much evidence of the bombing in that area.
Our Guide, Du-ee, then took us to his brothers farm. There he gave us bamboo sticks, line and bait attached and we fished in his pond.  Pauline was very luck for some reason, she caught 4 fish but 3 were so small had to be thrown back.  She did catch a big one. Next it was my turn but I only caught one,  but you shud see size of it, enough to feed the five of us.  The two fish were bbq’d and a great meal was had by all.  When we were leaving to walk the 2k back to town Du-ee insisted on giving me a lift on his moped back to the local pub. Of course I didnt refuse and It was great craic to arrive in style to everyone’s envy.pics kinda mixed up!!
No photographs please.
I did mention trekking, didn’nt I?  Oh what a day or should I say nightmare. Up hill and down dale, Slipping and sliding all the way, wee narrow tracks on edge of prepice, stepping on stones across raging rapids, the heat was hot and I near drowned in my own sweat.  Eventually got to terror firma  and that was end of trekking for me. Never ever again!
And the cooking class. Now that was great, enjoyed every minute from shopping in the market, admiring beetles, eels, snails and all that kinda stuffs.
Nice Beetles. and now
slippery eels, Yak, sorry- YUK
Fine pair of legs.
Thats all for now, must go and do something more interesting, e.g eat…

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Jaime, u post to my blog, cant do it from China,

Deserts, arnt you just sick of them, from Baku thru all the ‘stans’, Usbekistan – desert,
Turkmenistan – desert, Kygstistan – desert, Kazikistan – desert. Say wat u like about Ireland, you cud travel the length and breadth of it on Bus Eireann and not see sight nor light of a desert. When St Patrick banned the snakes he probably gave the heave-ho to the deserts as well.  And then we went to see the Aral Sea and wat did we see – yes, you guessed it – another desert. In 1960 it was a sea but now through rivers been dammed for irrigation, all that remains of a once proud fishing fleet lies in the sand. Truly a sad sight.
Anyway back to Baku.  First night in Baku stayed in 3 star hotel and  ferry due to depart at 7pm following evening. Checked out of hotel in morning expecting to get on ferry that evening. Next thing we heard ferry cancelled, tried to check back into hotel but most of rooms gone due to conference in the city. A few rooms available, in one case 8 to a room, in our room one bed for Leslie and me and James on floor.  Up next morning ferry still cancelled, no rooms available, spent night sleeping in car park. We were awakened at 4.30am, ferry docking, Mags and I took luggage in taxi to dock, others walked eventually set sail at 9.50am on Caspian Sea in a ‘rust bucket’. Cabins not fit to enter, yuk, the smell.  We slept on deck, calm sea.  Journey supposed to take 14hrs actually only took 38hrs15mins. Finally docked at 12.05am, cleared customs cleared customs at 3.30am. Drove to desert, pitched camp at 4.00am. Up again and on the road at 7.00am, driving thru the Kurakum Desert, 10hr day drive.  Its longest desert in Asia and we had to pick it ‘for the experience’.  5 June we arrived in Ashgabat, luvly clean city. Newly built city after earthquake. Curfew 11pm. Out for meal in a British Pub.  Visited museum in town of Nukus, very interesting exhibits but most popular exhibit was the air conditioning, well, its where the most number of people congregated and were deep in thought (probably on how to make an escape without being see by the guide).
13th June we drove thru Kazikstan into Nth Krygistan to avoid violence in Osh.
14th drove to Samarkand on Silk Road and Kirstin driving.  Stayed in City Hotel, great for the wee break from the bushcamping, satellite tv 300 stations and nothing on.
June 18 visas for Kirgystan but border closed even though counsel told Pete it was open. Drove to another border and got thru. Had to spend the night in no-man’s land between Uzbekistan and Kayzikstan or as our fellow Scottish Taylor called it ‘No man’s Stan’. Wish I’d thought of that.  Camped overnight beside busiest railway in Central Asia, slept on good ear, never heard a thing.
Wednesday 23 June went on trek to Alpine Lake, crossing snow sheets without the benifit of climbing tackle, had ford rivers up to our knees in raging torrents.  Alpine Lake 3500 mtrs above sea level, part of training for Everest.
2nd July Chinese Border.  Very strict, examined bags, tablets, clothes and boots.  When they opened James’ rucksack and pulled all out, what did they find but the Oatrich Boots.  Well, they were amazed and very amused, called other officials over to examine and measured to their feet see if he wud sell. Course he wudnt despite being offered a great price. Eventually after few hours got through, we still maintain it was because of those boots.
First stop Kashgar and went to John’s Cafe, should be St. John’s Cafe, good food, cheap beer and free wi-fi. What else could a weary traveller ask for.
Bushing camping again. Tents set up, dinner prepared and down comes the rain and the local chapter of the Hell Angels on mopeds demanding money with menances.
What else could we do but up camp in pouring rain and head for God knows where.
In the dark and rain we finally got another bushcamp and set up tents and had dinner. It was dark as a dungeon. We set up tents in small corner close for safety, next morning in light of day we saw that the wee space we were tented in was part of acres and acres. We could have had an acre to ourself.
At this stage Pete is insisting that we are not drinking enough.  Great excitment, down to pubs we envisioned.. Then he goes and spoils it all by saying pure clear water, at very least 3ltrs per day and ‘toilet stops’ every 20mins.
Friday 16th July En route to Lhasa, where we are now sitting in Dunya Bar and feeling no pain – oh the water, we’ll start tomorrow.
Next stop Base Camp, Mt Everest. Expecting weather in Lhasa to be extremely cold but not at all, still in summer wear.
Still in Dunya Bar what do we hear but Leadbelly singing ‘Goodnight Irene’

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Slashing Incident

Once upon a time in Kasbegi in remote bushcamp our leader arranged to have a party and invite the locals. He bought the lamb, cooked it for 7 hrs on spit. We all mucked in and cooked a banquet for our Georgian guests. The Georgian football team and Calypso team played soccer match and needless to say our team won – it was a close call- 7-7! The referee was obviously biased. He didnt see the Georgian ‘Thierry Henri’ playing volleyball inside our penalty area. Soon the fun started, the wine and chacha flowing. The bonfire burning brightly and the drinking continues. Great craic had by all until…Shock Horror…read this carefully and take note, let it be a warning to all. Here goes- A 65 yr old wandering unemployed Irish bricklayer has been charged with damaging private property-to whit a tent, not an ordinary ten but a state of the art model.
Appearing befoe Judge Pete, The Defendant claimed ‘It was the wee Leprechaun Ned what told me to do it. It was nothing to do with the strong beer and chacha (by the way chacha is not the legendary dance but a strong wine based spirit wud remind one of metholated spirits only stronger). However Judge Pete was having none of it and said the Defendant and who is still unemployed, has been banned for 6months for drinking and knifing. When interviewed later at his opulent penthouse suite, aboard Calypso, Judge Pete is reported to have said ‘I’ve heard all excuses but to accuse Ned of inciting this type of wanton mindless vandalism is disgraceful, I am a personal friend of Ned and he is an outgoing wee man wit not a bone in his body that hasnt been broken by careless handling. He has never been known to retaliate or complain’.

But I know the true story. To be woken at 6 by James to be told he had a nightmare where he was trapped and had no idea where he was but he knew he had a knife so he cut an opening. He put his head out to see where he was. He saw the other tents in the moonlight then he woke up. Subsequently he fell back to sleep and awoke thankful that it was only a nightmare but the nightmare was just beginning for him. Now we have a tent wit an emergency exit as the Derry Mike said. So Mr. Perfect no more, still human like the rest of us you’l be glad to hear.
Jesus Mary & Joseph and the wee donkey if he keeps this up we will end up living in a tent by the side of the road. First it was the curious case of the lost camera in Prague and now the damaged tent with its emergency exit! This man is costing a fortune and have now to apply to IMF for more funds to complete this trip.
The weekend following this castrophe and him wondering how the hell he could tell Pete, I had a ‘wee turn’. Pete & Kirsten were taking care of me in my sad state and during the course of the illness I informed them of James and his mishap. Needless to say they thought I was hallucinating but when James approached Pete in a wet muddy bushcamp looking for duct tape Pete replied he knew all about it and would sort something out which he did by having a spare tent on board so we sheltered from the rain.
When Darrell heard of my ‘wee turn’ ‘You must watch your health mama, your no spring chicken’. Wonderful isnt it what confidence a man gives a woman. So miracles do happen, I havnt had a proper drink since, the odd beer, now even the water beginning to taste good, especially without diesel. Now James is really worried about me.
Waiting at border to cross from Georgia to Azerbaijan Darrell got into chat wit taxi drivers, great craic until one sitting next to him opened his belt. great to see the expression on Darrells face and ‘no fucking way mate’ and jumped out of taxi face white as a sheet. It was then explained to Darrell by one of drivers who had smattering of English that the other fella only wanted to change trousers. When Darrell heard this he proceeded to remove trousers but much too big for wee man. And thats Darrells story.
Now we are in Baku waiting on ferry to cross the Mersey sorry meant Caspian to Turkmenistan.
Here’s my stop now.
Fotos to follow

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and there’s more

So we rolled into the seaport in Batumi, the biggest building site in Georgia (or thereabouts). Great Georgian feast that nite, dancing drinking and proposing toasts. It was not so much a ‘rainy nite’ in Georgia as a drinking nite in Georgia.  Got up next morning after a long night’s rest and found to our shock and horror we were on board the Marie Celeste or maybe it was the Flying Dutchman, either way it cud have done with a few coats of Fleetwood would wood.. 

Left the next morning for a long torturous drive thru the mountains and snow covered peaks, with Richard and Pete taking turns to drive which even a mountain goat would think twice about climbing. We arrived in village of Media for a homestay. Next morning James trekked 11 kms to the foot of the Glacier, pleasant he sez it was. 

 

 In the meantime  I decided to go wit group to the highest village in Europe  Ushguli,, or at least the highest one day has bin found so far., a journey of approx 2.5 hrs.   We went in minibus and half way to destination  we had a puncture or bus did.

We stopped for repairs.  The men got out to shove bus and as no one was steering we near went off the road, down the endless abyss.  ‘Stop stop’ the outside lot were shouting.  We inside the bus moved faster Dan  Usain Bolt.  Well, no way was I getting back on yon bus despite all hands trying to persuade me.  I would wait on a lift in either direction or I would walk.  Along came an army jeep which stopped and surveyed the goings on.  With the help of Martin, not of our group but wit us who cud speak a few Georgian words persuaded the army to give me a lift. It so happened they were also going to highest village.  Mags won’t let me go alone so she jumped in beside me. Perhaps ‘jumped’ is an exaggeration but she joined me for remainder of journey.  How cud we go wrong wit an armed escort, machine guns and side arms.  Wat a trip that turned out to be… after few mins jeep broke down, no worries, the petrol tank was full, the oil did flash red now and again and we were wit the army.  They got out to fix the trouble.  After checking the engine then looking under the vehicle, one of the men broke a twig of a tree and inserted somewhere under jeep and off we went again-for another few miles and another breakdown. No worries we were with the army.  No water so down to stream to get water and restore order to our jeep. At dis stage Mags and I were in hysterics laughing cos both of us making jokes about our situation.  And another breakdown but he opened engine had a look around it and decided to remove air filter, just threw it in back of jeep and of we went again til the next breakdown. He  opened engine and climbed onto it and gave a few wee jumps and off we go again. 

Next breakdown, opened engine and while he was examining it a farmer, with his two cattle pulling cart, came to have a look, perhaps to offer advice or perhaps it was first time he had seen such a machine.  This village high in mountains would be equal to Ireland in early 1900′s.  Remote and isolated from the world it consists of 3 villages. The first village is unoccupied, the second has few of a pop and third is ‘highly’ populated. At least we reached our destination even if it took 4 hrs and Mags and I had enjoyed the trip so much we decided to get a lift back with them.  It turned out that the two soldiers were in fact an armed escort for the bus..

Next morning we head for Kasbeki. .  What is the story with this trip.  We visit many churches and mosques.  I have visited  more in the last 5 weeks than I have in my lifetime. These arranged visits are because Pete looks so like the Messiah.  The main attraction was a church at the top of a mountain, 550 kms.   The group charged up the hill through dense jungle 8ft snow drifts.  And who led the way but our intrepid runner, Lesley.  That woman cud run for England.  And Wat did yer man say ‘ wouldnt throw her out of bed at 4 in the morning for handcuffing me to the bedpost’.  Dont know what dat means, where would she get handcuffs.  But having said that, this is where I made my greatest achievement to date.  Yes, I was also climbing that mountain but at my own pace, I made it, much to everyone’s surprise even my own. Wat a feeling of Ecstasy as the highest I have ever climbed was onto the high stool on a saturday and wasnt always easy  getting off that high stool.   Here’s my stop now…

Oh and yon mountain I climbed, I didnt actually do it all alone.  Couldnt  have attempted it without the great encouragement from Mags and our trusty guide ZsaZsa. Thanks Mags.

 

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Craic is ninety in Calypso

It is important to note that it is quite difficult to convey to the general population the wonderful time we are all having on this trip.  We travel alot, we camp alot but the craic is mighty.  It is all a big fun party..most of the time.  Pete, big boss man, arranges everything to perfection, of course he does have the assistance of Kirstin and Rich.
 
 
Istanbul, what a big beautiful, 12 to 16million pop.  You could say its ’an adult portion’ with apologies to Levon Helm of the ‘BAND’.  And talking of adult portions Wat about yon dorm…20 odd in one room of mixed sex, but in single size bunks.  All very well behaved, respectful and aware of others, but not always, eg one who arrived in after midnight staggering in several directions but with a mindset on his upper bunk and  did eventually arrive there.   And in the course of such an effort did manage to kick over a wine bottle, which lucky for him was empty but unfortunately for the ‘sleepers’ made quite a LOUD racket. Oh yes he is still alive to tell such a tale and needless to say he remains nameless.   And as for snoring, many complaints from the dorm group. Me, never heard a thing, didn’t wake me, had great nights sleep. 
 
Next morn on road for long journey to arrive at lovely campsite right on edge of BLACK SEA. I’m quite sure it was the BLACK SEA because Mags kept assuring me it was and not the CASPIAN SEA. But lets face it, when u sea one you sea them all!! And another day up at cock-crow, approx 8am, down to sea front to catch ferry for cruise for a few hours to view all the Black Sea… Home for dinner in local restaurant where the seating was cushions on the floor. What a sight to see, me lowering my self and then struggling to arise. Of course James pushed and shoved and I arose safely. Whilst having after dinner beverages (non-alcoholic…), we got into the company of a Frenchman, and in pigin French managed to communicate in a fashion, James and him discussed football, I tuned out at that stage but I did hear the name ‘Thierry Henri’ or something which sounded like that mentioned a couple of times.  But no blows were exchanged.  We all left on friendly terms.  I now know that France should not be in World Cup???  
Thursday, 6 May Calypso took us to ‘Akcakoca’ to great terraced campsite. After setting up camp and eating dinner we set out for nearest pub but unfortunately didn’t reach it as we were waylaid by Pauline and Barry who were playing footie with a few local children. We joined in and more kids came to see the action.  Very friendly people, we were served with cakes. and home to bed.
 
Great night’s sleep listening to Black Sea lapping against the rocks or so James sez. Me, heard nothing, was, as usual lying on ‘good ear’.  Nothing wrong with my sense of smell. Got up early, 8.30am (early?) to the smell of bacon and potatoes.A lazy day, strolled into town for coffee and sightseeing. After dinner Mike from Derry arranged a quiz. No, I wasn’t on James’ team which won in a sudden death finish all due to Mags who knows everything, even difference between the ‘seas’.  No, we wont say which team came last, dont want to embarrass anyone, shur we dont Kay.
 
9th May This is where it gets good… Up at 4.45am to go HOT AIR BALLOONING. Honest, I did, vertigo and all. James did not believe I was fit for such an experience because sometime ago we went on cable car ride and I did not like it, couldn’t look over the edge, kept my eyes closed.  Ah ha but this was much different. I had no doubt that I could overcome such a wee trauma and up up and away in ‘my beautiful balloon’.  Marvellous, it was, moving slowly and surely over towns and hills, no rocking and rolling. Of course I was proud of me.  Later in the day we all went on guided tour of underground caves, biggest in Turkey, holds 7000 people and sheep and horses. We had to practically bend right over to avoid hitting our heads, and that was me.  Those taller probably crawled their way through some of the passages.  We called into church, baptism room and winery. Disappointing, wine all gone.
Sunday morning picked up at site to go quad biking.  No bother to us. Into town, given our choice of bike and of course helmets. The guide on his motorbike led the way.  I was in the back seat holding on bravely as we rode on flat ground. We were last in queue as James getting to know the bike and its controls. From main road to dirt track and up hills and James still learning and me frightened and nervous. As journey progressed so did my terror.  When eventually caught up with the group who were parked on the side of a cliff, I just started screaming ‘stop, stop’. He did, but I was so afraid he would press wrong button and off we’d go over the edge.  Remember poor Ozzie Osbourne, nearly killed himself and he was all I could think of.  When we got off the bike I just wanted to walk home.  It is a long time since I was so terrified, cant remember if and when. Darrell had a motor bike and did he show off, up hills at fast pace, doing all kind of tricks as was the guide. Both of them had to keep returning to find us and make sure I was still there.  Darrell, as we all know at this stage is a right trouble maker.  He would drive beside us, revving like mad, frightening me even more.  He took some nasty pics of me which he said he would print on his blog.  That’s me and him finished.  Eventually, on way back James became more confident and had himself a great time and I wasn’t so bad either as I kept my eyes closed for that whole return journey. 
 
11th May, time to move on again. Turkey is so big and beautiful, and mountain passes, winding there way down slippery slopes.  Thanks to our competent drivers we did not worry about being on the edge of a cliff.  We  settled on bush camp beside a lake. The days so hot and the nights so cold. Would you believe that there is still snow on top of these mountains surviving through all the heat.  Thermal underwear was worn by me and that was under my day clothes. 
 
12th May On the road at 10am to drive just 90k to Ecribel Pass. Arrived in small bush camp, actually more shrub camp with beautiful fast flowing river.  Lesley, our fit person who loves her exercise, took us on stroll to nearest town. We followed  the ‘pied piper’.  We wondered where we were going and if we would ever see campsite again. Of course we all have faith in Lesley and she didn’t do us wrong.  We arrived in a small town/village and had a wee wander round. The locals came out of shops and houses to view the strangers. After us trying to communicate with them and vice versa, one man arrived from local shop who had a smattering of English.  He was well-dressed and spoke to the locals. stools arrived for us to sit down, then Turkish tea was brought to us, and sheeps cheese. We were given a present of some cheese. We must accept their gifts and not try to pay as it is an insult.  More men arrived to stop and stare. James reckons the English spoken gentleman is probably mayor of the wee town.  Thinking back, must check with others, but I dont think any women were there, besides us.  That is one thing we note, anywhere and everywhere we go the men folk are sitting in groups smoking and drinking tea. Where are all the women? At home doing all the work, we see them out in the fields, hoeing and mowing its either hoe or go. Our men think that is where all women should be… no, they havnt said so out loud. We have wise men in our group. We were made feel so welcome it was a great experience. 
 
13th. As we are making great time we stopped for a few hours in Trabazon to have a break.  We had lunch there and on our way back to meet with others there was such a furore in the street, police and ambulance and a crowd which we had to shove and push through and all because some poor bloke was up a few stories threatening to jump and the crowd encouraging him.  We moved on and heard later that he did in fact jump unto the inflated ‘bed’ and then according to Darrell  he bounced off onto the road (who, by the way, lends me his laptop-didnt I just say what a great bloke he is). However a more reliable witness assures us he was pulled back and grabbed to safety. The crowd were very disappointed as they had waited 2 perhaps 3 hrs to see the ‘high jump’.
 
14 May. 11.15am Another beautiful day.  All the group are gone uphill to view a monastery, supposed to be worth a visit but I have to sit here and write up me blog. The camp site is needless to say beautiful, in a valley surrounded by great trees.  It has the portion of 2 loos which include a shower.  As soon as we arrived yesterday afternoon James took all dirty washing to the fast flowing river and washed all. I went and had a shower, cold of course to suit this site.  Speaking of no women to be seen, it appears to be a woman who runs this site but enough said about her.
 

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More Photos

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By Jove I’ve got it (tanks Leslie)

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